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Started by Hal, August 23, 2005, 01:58:47 PM

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SuperGeo


Pushtone

Local supplier here in Vancouver BC. I've seen them on other folks pedals here
and would like to learn about another source for them. I like them because
they're exactly the same diameter as the Alpha 16mm pots and
I can cram pots close together if I want.
It's time to buy a gun. That's what I've been thinking.
Maybe I can afford one, if I do a little less drinking. - Fred Eaglesmith

Pushtone

OK the paint is finally dry! These were suppose to be done last weekend.

First Up is the GGG MXR Envelope Filter with mods. I built it straight like on the project PDF.
Like many have reported, the NTE CD4069 does not work in this circuit. I used the Fairchild CD4069.

It sounded a little thin and dropped a little level. I read the build reports over at tonepad and
most reports recommend some component subs. I did the substitutions and it sounds fuller with no level drop.
There is no noise issues and it is quiet as a mouse. A fun build for when you get tired of boosts and fuzzes.
Mark Hammer also has a mod to add a release pot to either the Tonepad or GGG layouts in this thread
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=41514.0

I cant decide if I like it clean...


Or with goofey graphics on window decal so I didn't clear coat it yet. What do you all think? Too goofey?


I used self adhesive standoff to mount the PCB inside.




Next Up is the Dallas Rangemaster renamed the Beetle Boost with a 1309 transistor from Small Bear.
Not sure if this is the real Rangemaster sound, I like my Brian May Treble Booster better.

I used clear window decal paper again. A few air bubbles appeared the day after clear coating.
I used the last of the window decal paper and will probable go back to waterslide decals because they
don't trap air bubbles. :icon_evil:



Hey my first pedal with a battery.



I used nylon bolts and nuts from Home Depot as standoffs to mount the PCB.



Two (or more) nylon bolts each use two nylon nuts to "hover" the PCB at a set height.
The nylon bolts are easy to cut to legnth with clippers so that when the box lid is closed the standoffs are compressed between.

It's time to buy a gun. That's what I've been thinking.
Maybe I can afford one, if I do a little less drinking. - Fred Eaglesmith

zeta55

Quote from: disto on August 13, 2006, 05:58:09 PM
zeta i like the pedals on your site nice to see tubes on the outside like some of the electro harmonix
Yes, they do glow nice in the dark, also ads alot of mojo to the pedals :icon_lol:

/Krister
Visit my site: http://www.zeta-sound.se/

Dan N

#924
Rattle Crow with a T booster in front. Thrift store box.



Les guts:

disto

Quote from: Dan N on August 14, 2006, 05:30:15 AM
Thrift store box.

thrift stores seem to be real aladin's caves! Im sure Ive never seen anything in UK charity/junk shops mildly as interesting as the stuff i see on here from thrift stores!

$uperpuma

Quote from: Dan N on August 14, 2006, 05:30:15 AM
Rattle Crow with a T booster in front. Thrift store box.



Les guts:


This is the true Dan Norris style, in my opinion :) My local electronics store has a surplus of two piece metal faux woodgrain cable boxes fro mthe 80's before they were cut for the LED and everything...I may have to pick some up...
Breadboards are as invaluable as underwear - and also need changed... -R.G.

Stompin Tom

"AAaarrggg!!! I wish I could get my G&L F-100 back!  Tom, how does she sound? Does that one come with the treble boost?"

Late response here... O, I'm very happy with my G&L. Why did you get rid of yours? Anywho, sort of a strange beast, somewhere between a tele delux and a strat. It's a passive one, but the treble roll-off tone pot is bypassed in the bridge pup position... if that's what you mean by treble boost. I'm very curious to try an active one. Mine's actually been refinished and refretted... so I got it dirt cheap, but it's the best playing bolt-on I've ever played.

jonathan perez

Phase 90 6 IC clone, soon to have a "univibe" switch, to choose between the two sets of caps...




you guys should see my wahs too...hey, ill post those while im at it.

this first one is called the "grace wah," because it reminds me of my ex-girlfriend, whos middle name was grace. im not sure why, so dont ask. i really like the dripping technique on this. also, i did the first layer with a black primer, then did a sort of "texturizing" pain layer, which is like foamy wall type stuff...then over with that purplish color, then hand painting, then glossing, then dying...ok, here are the pics.





this one has no guts yet, but will be another variation of the "grace wah."
some of the same techniques, minus the textured wall spray paint.



this is an area51 wah. it has sort of a "liquid" tone to it, that i like alot. so i kinda did the paint job in a manner which represents, to me, "air" and "water."


i wont show pics of the guts, but just so you know, the knobs and switch are dummies hahaha. ill have em working later on, i like this wah as a "plug in and play."

no longer the battle of midway...(i left that band)...

i hate signatures with gear lists/crap for sale....

i am a wah pervert...ask away...

Pushtone

Hey battleofthemidway...

Whats that green paint on your Phase 90 6 IC clone?
Looks like a sparkle or pseudo metal flake.
Very cool.

Nice pedal(s) and cool paint jobs.
It's time to buy a gun. That's what I've been thinking.
Maybe I can afford one, if I do a little less drinking. - Fred Eaglesmith

jonathan perez

its hobby car metallic green pray paint. the copper is just a copper that sort of winkled, so it looks AWESOME and appears to be metal flaked.

not bad for a colorblind dude.  :icon_cool:

thanx!
no longer the battle of midway...(i left that band)...

i hate signatures with gear lists/crap for sale....

i am a wah pervert...ask away...

bdevlin


Roobin

#932
Quote from: Pushtone on August 14, 2006, 12:26:38 AM
I cant decide if I like it clean...


Or with goofey graphics on window decal so I didn't clear coat it yet. What do you all think? Too goofey?

It HAS to be goofy!

Stompin Tom

bdevlin: what did you cut the lid with so the 1/4 inch jacks would fit? I made my friend a curiously strong booster for his birthday, and I sort of mangled that part of the assembly...

syndromet

My hiwatha! Finaly got it together, in between changing dipers and working my ass of. Anyway, I think it still has a little of that Hiwatt-look. Wadda ya' think?


My diy-site: www.syndromet.com

mojotron

Quote from: syndromet on August 18, 2006, 09:52:14 AM
My hiwatha! Finaly got it together, in between changing dipers and working my ass of. Anyway, I think it still has a little of that Hiwatt-look. Wadda ya' think?

That's great - I like the straight forward approach like 'classic' gear. I would love to get a part number for those pots - I'm not that big on knobs for a lot of my prototype stuff.

bdevlin

Quote from: Stompin Tom on August 18, 2006, 09:51:48 AM
bdevlin: what did you cut the lid with so the 1/4 inch jacks would fit? I made my friend a curiously strong booster for his birthday, and I sort of mangled that part of the assembly...

I believe I just used a round file.  You might also be able to use a small round stone with a drill or a Dremel.

Mark Hammer

This isn't EVERYTHING, but is pretty representative.  There are some commercial pedals in there as well.  I've grown partial to those beige plastic boxes, as you can see.  Easy to machine, and a usable amount of space for a lot of things (though not everything).  Best of all, I get them for $2@ (though, as surplus, the supply will run out shortly).  I stick a piece of copper shim along the underside of the top as shielding (the pots and switches hold it to the chassis), and use a piece of copper board for the end-pieces (copper facing inward).  Another thing I like is that with power and audio jacks on the rear skirt, you can snuggle these babies right up against each other for pedalboard purposes.  Finally, "finishing" consists of rubbing on some lettering and spraying a bit of quick-drying clear laquer - something I think everyone in our house appreciates during the winter months when I can't leave the garage door open for long to let the paint fumes out.

You can also see lots of 1590B and 1590BB boxes, as well as some of those 125-type slotted-side boxes, and some boxes I had bought surplus with pre-punched holes for slide switches (Bosstone, Dr. Q, Hot Tubes).

I try to keep the visuals as simple and uninvolved as possible.  Enough info to know what control does what, and what the pedal is or does, and that's it.  Partly because I don't have tons of 3PDT switches, and partly because a) I don't need an LED to know the pedal is on or 2) I don't anticipate selling it to someone who needs to know, only some pedals have a status LED.  I prefer to stick LEDs on those pedals where bpass is hard to distinguish from effect unless you switch back and forth a bit.  Fuzz doesn't normally fall into that category.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v474/mhammer/Pedalpix/Cleanprocessing.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v474/mhammer/Pedalpix/Distortionpedals.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v474/mhammer/Pedalpix/Modulationpedals-1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v474/mhammer/Pedalpix/Filterpedals.jpg

Pushtone

It's time to buy a gun. That's what I've been thinking.
Maybe I can afford one, if I do a little less drinking. - Fred Eaglesmith

Marcos - Munky

Quote from: Pushtone on August 18, 2006, 12:41:41 PM
I'm interested in what circuit is in the String Damper (#5 Modulation pedals)
An original creation?

No, it's an E&MM design. The schematic is available at Mark's site.

Great collection, Mark.